Domaine Derain Saint-Aubin Le Ban 2021
- Region
- France » Burgundy » Côte d'Or » Côte de Beaune » Saint-Aubin AOC
- Type
- red still, dry
- Producer
- Vintage
- 2021
- Grapes
- Pinot Noir
- Alcohol
- 12
- Sugar
- 2.6
- Volume
- 750 mL
- Cellar
- not available
Ratings
Oh, what a character this wine has. But does its depth and complexity justify the flaws? Hard to say. The biggest hurdle right now is age - it's simply far too young. It darts between extremes, both in aroma and in acidity. Give it a little time and it does reshapes your impression of it, but not too much. A textbook adolescent - volatile, rebellious, but (?) oddly captivating.
It all starts with those peculiar berries like viburnum (which some associate with old socks), lingonberries, and other tart-bitter Nordic wildlings. There's a barnyard note and heaps of VA. Sauerkraut too. On the palate - razor acidity, a long fruit-punch-like finish that leans out of balance. But give it air, and the story shifts dramatically. The same general profile, but now a few softer notes enter - raspberries, sour cherries, something tender. A semblance of balance emerges. And there's this lovely bitter wormwood twist on the finish - I'm always a sucker for that.
Sure, it's crafted by different hands, but I can't help but wonder - will it ever echo the 2004? That the only other vintage I've tasted.
In any case, this wine is fiercely specific - and absolutely not for everyone.
About Producer
Created by Dominique Derain, now managed by his 'student' Julien Altaber also known by his Sextant project.