David Duband by Alessio

Tasting six wines from David Duband offers a fascinating glimpse into the nuances of Burgundy, where winemaking is as much an art form as a craft. With all the wines produced similarly, it was a unique opportunity to explore the distinct personalities of each commune while getting a sense of Duband's signature style, which persists across every bottle.

David Duband has been steadily refining his approach since he took over his family's domaine in 1991. His journey from conventional farming to organic certification by 2006 marked a significant shift, and the acquisition of prime vineyard sites, thanks to his friend and business partner François Feuillet, certainly didn't hurt. But David's real talent lies not in grand gestures but in his consistent evolution---a bit like fine-tuning a well-loved instrument until it sings just right.

Duband's wines started gaining more attention around the 2008 vintage when he began experimenting with whole cluster fermentation and a gentler hand in the cellar. This shift resulted in wines that were less bulky and more graceful, allowing the subtle differences between vineyards to shine through. In Burgundy, where the soil and climate differences between vineyards can be minute, this approach is crucial. David's wines aren't about bold contrasts but rather the delicate interplay of terroir and vintage.

While some might argue that a uniform approach to vinification results in wines that don't vary much from one to the next, it's in the subtleties where the magic truly happens. Having a winemaker like David Duband, who employs a consistent method across his range, allows us to witness the differences in terroir---sometimes subtle, sometimes striking---in each of his wines. In a region as terroir-driven as Burgundy, this uniformity in the cellar strips the wines down to their essence, revealing their origins with clarity. It's like seeing the terroir laid bare, making Duband's wines a perfect study case for understanding the nuances of Burgundy's diverse landscape.

Duband's vineyards are mostly located in the Côte de Nuits, Pinot Noir's stronghold within Burgundy. He manages an impressive range, from entry-level wines to village wines from Gevrey-Chambertin to Nuits-Saint-Georges, with premier crus in Chambolle-Musigny, Morey-Saint-Denis, and Nuits-Saint-Georges, and even a collection of grand crus. Each wine, regardless of its classification, is treated with the same meticulous care: grapes are hand-harvested, sorted, and then vinified with a high proportion of whole clusters---anywhere from 50% to 90% depending on the wine and vintage. Fermentation is carried out over 17 days with traditional techniques like pigeage (punching down) and remontage (pumping over), ensuring a thorough yet gentle extraction.

After pressing, the wines spend two weeks settling before being transferred to barrels, with 40% new oak and the rest in barrels that are one to three years old. Ageing lasts 14 months before the wines are racked into tanks for another three months, followed by bottling without filtration.

Tasting through these six wines, it's clear that while David Duband's approach might seem methodical, it's anything but monotonous. Each bottle offers a distinct expression of its terroir, from the more approachable Bourgogne to the structured and complex Clos Vougeot. Duband's wines are a testament to the beauty of Burgundy's subtle differences, revealed one glass at a time.

David Duband Bourgogne 2016

The wine presents a ripe and warm bouquet, with a mix of red and black fruits, red plums, and a subtle animalistic note, accompanied by earthy undertones. On the palate, it's juicy, with tannins that are a bit dry and slightly harsh, yet it maintains a decent balance overall. The finish is long and warm, with a neat hint of musk. While not overly complex, its age and juicy character make it a solid, dependable base-level wine.

David Duband Vosne-Romanée 2016

The wine offers plenty of red fruits, a touch of chocolate, black roses, and a hint of something herbaceous, reminiscent of tobacco. On the palate, it's intense and tannic, but the good acidity provides structure and balance, leading to a long, delicious aftertaste that makes it a pleasure to drink. It's a bit too muscular for personal taste, but that's simply the signature style of the winemaker.

David Duband Gevrey-Chambertin 2018

The wine reveals an intense bouquet of dark fruits, blood, raw meat, and a hint of sweet tobacco. On the palate, it continues with that intensity, featuring an almost seamless structure that's reminiscent of cough syrup---without any negative connotations. The tannins are powerful yet not abrasive, and there's a touch of juiciness that adds to its appeal. It's neat and delicious, but overall, it feels a bit blurry and soft-focused, lacking a certain clarity on the palate.

David Duband Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers 2016

The wine offers a perfumed bouquet with notes of red flowers, red fruits reminiscent of confiture, and a touch of crushed stone. On the palate, it's well-balanced and juicy, with slightly grainy tannins that add texture without disrupting the balance. The aftertaste is long, with nice volume, making it an overall delicious experience. While it may not be the most delicate Chambolle-Musigny, there's an appealing charm in the way the commune's style blends with the winemaker's distinctive touch.

David Duband Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Procès 2014

This wine presents a charming bouquet that blends chocolate, red fruits, fried sunflower seeds, and a delicate touch of pickles and mushrooms. On the palate, it performs a curious trick. Initially, it's well-balanced and seamless, revealing a round and mature character. But after a while, the tannins awaken, revealing a powerful and harsh nature, yet the wine remains lively throughout. I'm left puzzled by this intriguing and not so pleasant transformation.

David Duband Clos Vougeot 2016

The bouquet is delicate and even a bit restrained, but undeniably beautiful, with notes of pickles, red fruits, Nordic berries, red flowers, tobacco, and a hint of raw meat. On the palate, the wine is equally delicate, offering near-perfect balance and great juiciness---it's fresh and delicious. Despite its concentration and a slightly syrupy texture (in a good way), the tannins remain a bit harsh but are well integrated.

Raw scores

Resources

• David Duband. The Source.
• Domaine Duband.
• Wine Wine