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Numen Grüner Veltliner - 2015

Johannes Zillinger

4.10 / 5.0

Type
white still, dry
Region
Austria, Austria
Vintage
2015
Grapes
Grüner Veltliner
Alcohol
12.5
Sugar
unknown
Price
1291 UAH
Cellar
not available
Johannes Zillinger Numen Grüner Veltliner 2015

The wine originates from vineyards situated at an elevation of 180-200 meters above sea level, with vines averaging around 60 years of age, ensuring a deep-rooted exploration of the terroir's complexity. Vinification is handled with a natural approach, embracing spontaneous fermentation without temperature control and employing semi-carbonic maceration for 7 days in qvevri, 25% of which includes the stems, to enhance the wine's structure and aromatic profile. Following fermentation, the wine undergoes a maturation process lasting 16 months in old acacia barrels with a 700-litre capacity, contributing nuanced layers of texture and flavour. Bottling is conducted without filtration or fining, with a minimal dose of SO₂ added at bottling to preserve the wine's integrity.

Ratings

4.10 / 5.0750 ml@Lo Kyiv · Johannes Zillinger Uncorked by Vasyl Velykanskiy

The wine presents an intriguing initial profile, with brett-like characteristics that may initially challenge the senses. However, it swiftly unfolds to reveal a complex bouquet of smoke, grass, lilac flowers, and a subtle hint of pickles, demonstrating its layered nature (hehe).

The palate is marked by a distinctive saltiness, intertwined with fermentation-like nuances and the fresh zing of green apricot, illustrating a harmonious blend of flavours. The oak integration is commendable, adding depth without overwhelming the wine's intrinsic qualities. With a long, lingering aftertaste, this wine stands out for its complexity and delightful taste.

Its potential for cellar ageing, however, remains a question, as the wine's current expressiveness and balance might suggest a readiness for immediate enjoyment rather than prolonged storage.

Wine #2 on Johannes Zillinger Uncorked by Vasyl Velykanskiy event.

Johannes Zillinger

Johannes Zillinger, a third-generation winemaker, has adeptly steered the family winery into the modern era while deeply rooting his practices in the history and tradition of his forebears. The Zillinger winery, owned by Johannes's family since 1673, stands as a testament to a long-standing heritage of viticulture, with origins tracing back to Bavarian settlers relocated by the church in the 16th century to cultivate church lands. Transitioning to organic farming in the early 1980s under his father's guidance, one of Austria's pioneers in organic viticulture, Johannes has since embraced biodynamic farming with a zeal that reflects both respect for the legacy and a forward-thinking approach. His vineyards, including some of the oldest St. Laurent vines in the region, are managed with minimal intervention, embodying his belief in letting nature dictate the course. The shift towards biodynamics under Johannes's stewardship has been marked by innovations (on the region scale) like the introduction of qvevri and a commitment to practices that enhance the vitality and expressiveness of his wines.

Navigating Johannes Zillinger's wines is an exploration of his philosophy and the diversity of his vineyards, categorized into four distinct series: Velue, Reflexion, Revolution, and Numen. The Velue series, named after both the old name of the village Velm-Götzendorf (where the winery is located) and the willow trees lining the local rivers, offers an accessible entry point into Zillinger's approach to natural winemaking. These wines, characterized by their lightness, everyday appeal, and minimalistic vinification, are a testament to the unique terroir and Johannes's dedication to biodynamic practices. The Reflexion series takes a more focused approach, showcasing single-vineyard, single-varietal wines that serve as intricate portraits of their specific terroir, varietal, and vintage. These wines are crafted to express the complexity and nuances of their origins.

The Revolution series embodies Johannes's playful and experimental side, featuring wines that break from tradition and offer a fresh, dynamic experience. Utilizing methods like short-time maceration, the Solera system, and experiments with PIWI vines, this line is designed to redefine everyday drinking wines with its distinct, far-from-mainstream character. Lastly, the Numen series represents the pinnacle of Zillinger's winemaking, with grapes sourced from the oldest vines and vinified with minimal intervention. This series is a profound expression of divine influence and fate, capturing the essence of the vineyard's history and Johannes's winemaking philosophy. Each of these series offers a unique perspective on Zillinger's craftsmanship, providing both novices and connoisseurs with an enriching exploration of Austrian natural wines.