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Reflexion Cabernet - 2017

Johannes Zillinger

3.8
Region
Austria » Wein
Type
red still, dry
Vintage
2017
Grapes
Cabernet Sauvignon
Alcohol
12
Volume
750 mL
Cellar
not available
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Johannes Zillinger Reflexion Cabernet 2017

Ratings

3.8
·@Lo Bar

When served blind, the only element I correctly guessed was its cold climate origin, with Fedellos among my initial thoughts. The nose is quite aromatic, featuring an abundance of plums, compote, spices, and a hint of smoke. It exhibits ease and relevant elegance, thanks to its delicate tannins and decent acidity. The aftertaste is slightly warm, which is unexpected for a wine with 12% ABV. It's delicious yet not overly complex. While it doesn't meet my expectations for a Cabernet Sauvignon, it isn't bad in its own right.

Johannes Zillinger

Johannes Zillinger, a third-generation winemaker, has adeptly steered the family winery into the modern era while deeply rooting his practices in the history and tradition of his forebears. The Zillinger winery, owned by Johannes's family since 1673, stands as a testament to a long-standing heritage of viticulture, with origins tracing back to Bavarian settlers relocated by the church in the 16th century to cultivate church lands. Transitioning to organic farming in the early 1980s under his father's guidance, one of Austria's pioneers in organic viticulture, Johannes has since embraced biodynamic farming with a zeal that reflects both respect for the legacy and a forward-thinking approach. His vineyards, including some of the oldest St. Laurent vines in the region, are managed with minimal intervention, embodying his belief in letting nature dictate the course. The shift towards biodynamics under Johannes's stewardship has been marked by innovations (on the region scale) like the introduction of qvevri and a commitment to practices that enhance the vitality and expressiveness of his wines.

Navigating Johannes Zillinger's wines is an exploration of his philosophy and the diversity of his vineyards, categorized into four distinct series: Velue, Reflexion, Revolution, and Numen. The Velue series, named after both the old name of the village Velm-Götzendorf (where the winery is located) and the willow trees lining the local rivers, offers an accessible entry point into Zillinger's approach to natural winemaking. These wines, characterized by their lightness, everyday appeal, and minimalistic vinification, are a testament to the unique terroir and Johannes's dedication to biodynamic practices. The Reflexion series takes a more focused approach, showcasing single-vineyard, single-varietal wines that serve as intricate portraits of their specific terroir, varietal, and vintage. These wines are crafted to express the complexity and nuances of their origins.

The Revolution series embodies Johannes's playful and experimental side, featuring wines that break from tradition and offer a fresh, dynamic experience. Utilizing methods like short-time maceration, the Solera system, and experiments with PIWI vines, this line is designed to redefine everyday drinking wines with its distinct, far-from-mainstream character. Lastly, the Numen series represents the pinnacle of Zillinger's winemaking, with grapes sourced from the oldest vines and vinified with minimal intervention. This series is a profound expression of divine influence and fate, capturing the essence of the vineyard's history and Johannes's winemaking philosophy. Each of these series offers a unique perspective on Zillinger's craftsmanship, providing both novices and connoisseurs with an enriching exploration of Austrian natural wines.