Ratings

Tanca Nica

Winemakers are truly passionate artisans. Sometimes, after hearing about the challenges they face from nature, it becomes impossible to drink their wines without appreciating their effort. Pantelleria may not be the most hostile place in the world, but it certainly presents significant challenges for winemaking. This small island in the Mediterranean Sea is nearly 40 kilometres closer to Tunisia than to Sicily. Volcanic soils, intense heat, water scarcity, and strong Sirocco winds from Africa demand substantial effort to grow and protect the vines.

To shield the grapes, winemakers use the alberello training system, often growing them in 'concas' basins, and often surrounding vineyards with walls. These methods help protect from the wind and manage water better. Combined with low-density planting and labour-intensive vineyard maintenance, these techniques make wine production on the island both challenging and rewarding. The term "heroic winemaking" is well-deserved.

Francesco, a native of Pantelleria, and Nicoletta, originally from Sardinia, met by chance in Milan. After gaining experience in New Zealand, they returned to Pantelleria in 2015 to start Tanca Nica. Their winemaking philosophy focuses on minimal intervention, allowing the natural flavours and aromas of the grapes to shine through. They manage 3.5 hectares spread over 15 parcels, each offering a unique expression of the island's diverse terroirs.

Their winery offers a wide range of wines for its size. It's noteworthy that only 0.5 hectares are family-owned; the rest are leased from vineyards across the island, allowing them to explore the characteristics of each plot.

Their flagship wine is "Soki Soki," a 100% Zibibbo that showcases the island's volcanic soil. Another notable wine is "Terra Forte," a powerful and structured Zibibbo. They also produce "Kaffefi," a micro-cuvée of Catarratto from very old vines, and "Firri Firri," a claret-style blend of Catarratto, Pignatello, and Inzolia.

Additionally, they offer four cru wines (Yellow, Gray, Red and Black labels), each reflecting different district soils, adding unique nuances to their portfolio. "Nivuro Nostrale" stands out, made from 97 vines that are over 100 years old, and the traditional passito wine "Passulata" also deserves special mention.

Despite their progress, Francesco shared a sad reality during our conversation with the Sabotage team: the biggest challenge for the island is not nature per se but the young people leaving for big cities. When you make wine, you always think about the future. So who will inherit it all? And unfortunately, this question haunts winemakers all over the world, even in renowned places like Champagne.

This small winery, with its diverse and dedicated approach, highlights the resilience and passion required to produce exceptional wines in the face of significant challenges. Each bottle tells a story of the island's unique terroir and the winemakers' commitment to preserving their heritage.