Pinò - 2016
Gulfi
Hailing from the northern slopes of the iconic Etna in the municipality of Randazzo, the Pinò wine showcases the richness and depth of the Sicilian terroir. The "Vigna Militi" vineyard, occupying approximately half a hectare within the Monte la Guardia section of Randazzo, is a testament to innovation. Instead of the traditional local varieties, it features a massal selection of original Burgundy Pinot Noir vines. These vines are prudently trained in the classic alberello style, supported by chestnut stakes. The impressive planting density of 10,000 vines per hectare ensures the vines compete, driving their roots deep into the volcanic terraces they call home. These terraces, crafted from the very lava that has defined Etna’s soils, are bordered by an enchanting chestnut forest, painting a picturesque backdrop.
The vineyard management reflects a strong commitment to nature. Adopting organic practices and abstaining from irrigation, the vines are treated with respect, allowing them to express the land's true character. Perched at 850 meters above sea level, the vineyard benefits from a cool and breezy climate, accentuating the qualities of the 100% Pinot Noir grapes which yield about 65 quintals per hectare.
In the winery, the magic truly begins. Harvested between the second and third weeks of September, the grapes undergo an extended maceration with their skins at low temperatures, preserving the fruit’s intrinsic qualities. Post malolactic fermentation, the wine is transferred into 500-liter French oak tonneaux, where it matures gracefully for at least a year. The maturation journey doesn't end here; the wine is then bottled, resting for an additional year, ensuring the wine is a harmonious blend of the Etna's volcanic spirit and the elegance of Pinot Noir.
Ratings
Cherry confiture and a floral basket, initially tainted by a touch of barnyard. But the animalistic hint is a fleeting visitor, leaving behind an alluring, almost seductive character. This is no earth-bound concoction; it's a terrestrial affair in a glass. The balance is cool and collected, acidity sharp, and freshness crisp, carrying a juicy sway. Feared a fall from grace after the (highly subjectively) stellar Pinò '13, but this '16 vintage stepped up to the plate, smashing my doubts and serving a delicious reality check. It's not just a good wine; it's a long awaited sip. Happy me, indeed.
Gulfi
The fact that my relations with Sicilian wines are special might be something obvious. But not many people know that it all started with Gulfi stand at the very first Kyiv Wine festival. When we met, I was already tired (e.g. drunk). I almost passed by, disgusted by my own weakness, when a Gulfi representative (apologies, I don't remember her name) stopped me and offered a glass of their wine. I looked at the representative welcoming face. I looked at the naked ass on the label. And I realised there are no reasons to reject this present from Dionysus. And even though I don't remember which wines I tasted exactly, the Gulfi imprint is what I took out of that overly drunk day.
It is worth mentioning that the naked ass on the label has a meaning. A meaning close enough to what one might think. Meet an ancient mosaic from Villa Romana del Casale located in Piazza Armerina in the province of Enna. This mosaic depicts Eros (Cupid) and Psyche (Beauty). According to the story, out of envy of Venus, they are forced to love each other in secret. But passion rarely goes unnoticed, and in their case, it found a physical manifestation (no puns) in the form of a daughter (no puns, seriously) they called Vulptas (literally meaning 'pleasure'), a goddess of sensual pleasures. And how does it connect to Gulfi? Sicily is Psyche, Gulfi is Eros, and their child is wine, a sensual pleasure.