
2021
Region
Spain › Vino de Mesa
Type
white · still
Grapes
Torrontés, Palomino Fino, Albariño, Treixadura
Alcohol
11%
Volume
750 mL
Sugar
0.3 g/L
Last release of this label and boy, has it developed beautifully. The acid that used to bite like an angry terrier has finally learned some manners - still vibrant but no longer assault and battery. This drinks like aged Champagne that forgot its bubbles somewhere, all toasted and savoury depth. Classic Iago - it's not about fruit, though bruised apples and yellow stone fruits drift through the flor haze. For those who get the whole flor thing, this is dangerously easy drinking now. Bittersweet to see this label go, but what a way to bow out.
Mercenario Blanco is crafted by blending four grape varieties: Treixadura, Albariño, Torrontés, and Palomino. The primary source of grapes for this wine is the Manolo de Traveso vineyard, known for its clay-rich soil and granite bedrock, situated among some of the highest vineyards in the Miño River Valley. Additionally, a portion of the Treixadura grapes is sourced from the decomposed granite vineyard in the Arnoia Valley, while the Albariño grapes hail from the lower Miño area in Filgueira. Smaller vineyard parcels can also be found scattered across the three valleys: Arnoia, Avia, and Miño.
The primary fermentation starts in stainless steel with low temperatures. After fermentation, they are transferred to an equal mixture of 400-litre amphoras and 600-litre stainless steel tanks for around ten months of ageing.
Well hello, biological aging! With time, this wine has lost even more fruit, making the voile-like notes more apparent. Some love it, some hate it, but it's hard to stay indifferent. Yes, it kind of strips the wine of its origin traces, but this one is so well crafted and delicious. Mineral, sophisticated, wonderfully balanced, with an almost eternal aftertaste. For new releases, look for Ollos Branco as Mercenario is no longer made.
The time has passed and the 2021 Mercenario branco is ready. It is generous, open and delicious. A charming mix of marzipan, yellow apple, lemon, sea breeze, propolis and pear candy. Salty, voluminous and well-balanced. Easy to confuse with slightly oxidated Savagnin. Great value.
Mercenario has a youthful and aromatic bouquet dominated by pear candy and a sea breeze with a touch of honey. Not easy to extract descriptors from this wine, but it's definitely pleasant. Medium-full bodied with oily structure, fresh and well-balanced. I love the salty profile with notes of baked pear and honey. Need to taste again in few months.