A'Puddara Etna Bianco - 2010
Tenuta di Fessina
- Region
- Italy 禄 Sicilia 禄 Etna DOC
- Type
- white still, dry
- Producer
- Tenuta di Fessina
- Vintage
- 2010
- Grapes
- Carricante
- Alcohol
- 12.5
- Volume
- 750 mL
- Cellar
- not available
A'puddara (a pole star) is an ode to Carricante, a guiding star of Mount Etna. The 2 ha vineyard was planted in 1950 at 900 meters above sea level. It is located in the Biancavilla production area (southern parts of the volcano), Contrada Manzudda. This area is composed of small volcanoes and crates from remote eras. They led to the formation of limestone caves and a terroir composed mainly of clayey particles, lapilli leftovers, sand and volcanic ash. There are tiny fractions of potassium, basaltic lavas and ancient tuffs. Combined with thermic excursion and the high rates of the genotypic acidity of the indigenous grapes (including Carricante), it is believed that the terroir produces wines with great ageing potential. Well, we have an opportunity to check it.
The fruits are crushed without de-stemming and softly pressed with separation of the musts. After cold static decantation, the wine is fermented in 3500-litre French oak barrels. Refined on lees for 6-8 months. Total production is relatively small - 6000 regular and 150 magnum bottles.
Ratings
Maybe it was a bottle variation, age taking its toll, or the heavy influence of the previous wine, but A'Puddara didn't deliver that memorable experience. It still was delicious and delicate as ever but much more tired. Sea breeze, wet cellar, stone fruits, lemon tart and shells. Multilayered, persistent and nuanced. Still, a lovely wine.
Despite the troubles with opening this wine (oh, the crooked me), A'Puddara delivered its beauty and asserted delicate dominance. Again. A charming and sophisticated bouquet of sea breeze, citrus candies, stone fruits, and lemon tart. Ephemeral and almost perfectly balanced. Good acidity, minerality, and structure. Nuanced and delicious. I have no regrets about repeating it.
At this point, without any doubts, I give this wine the title of discovery of the year 2023. Jokes aside, this wine is beautiful and feminine, meaning Silvia Maestrelli achieved her goal. Bravo. A charming and sophisticated bouquet of lemon tart with meringue, melted ice cream, sea breeze, and candies. Ephemeral and almost perfectly balanced. Good acidity, minerality, and structure. Nuanced and delicious. No wonder most people named it the favourite of the evening.
Tenuta di Fessina
Mount Etna. Crazy winemaking region with its charm, elegance, beauty, and, most importantly, character. A place to visit, to fall in love with, and stay for the rest of your life. After visiting Sicily in 2006, Silvia Maestrelli decided to start a new phase in her life. And after lengthy negotiations with numerous landowners, she started Tenuta di Fessina on the slopes of Etna mountain. Since its start in 2007, Silvia Maestrelli was trying to combine the sensitivity of a "feminine" oenological vision with the unquestioned technical skills of consultants and collaborators.