Ulysse Collin
Les Maillons Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut (2017) - NV
9.00 / 10

Type
White Sparkling, Extra brut
Producer
Ulysse Collin
Base vintage
2017
Disgorged in
03/2021
Spent on lees
32 months
Location
France, Champagne AOC
Grapes
Pinot Noir
Alcohol
12.5
Sugar
4.2
Price
4500 UAH
Cellar
N/A

Pinot Noir vines were planted in 1971 in heavy, iron-rich clay soils with chalky limestone sub-soils. Hand-harvested, the clusters destemmed and the grapes gently pressed; the juice is fermented spontaneously and slowly (up to 6 months) with natural yeasts in mainly-used Burgundy barrels. Reserve wines are held in foudres and tonneaux. The wine is bottled without fining or filtering and aged on lees for 36 months.

Producer

Ulysse Collin is a legendary Champagne producer based in Congy. Owned by the family that actively growth vines since 1812 in Coteaux du Petit Morin (located in Marne but south of the Grand Crus in the Côte des Blancs). These days Olivier stands behind the name.

In 1987 Oliver’s father stopped independent production of wines and started renting family’s vines to big Champagne houses. As young student, Oliver took a trip to Burgundy, where he was amazed by wines from Côte de Beaune, especially by singularity of the various climats. So he decided to reclaim vieyards back from big négociant.

In 2003 recovered 4.5 hectares and started working on restoring the soils and vines. The year was tough, so he didn’t produce any wine that year and simply sold everything. But in 2004 he started his production from Chardonnay which resulted in 5400 bottles released in the future.

In 2005 Olivier got back an additional 4.2 hectares of vines. And the second Champagne was made in 2006, this time a Blanc de Noirs.

Plots:

  • Les Pierrières, 1.2 hectares, 40 years old vines. Shallow, poor topsoil 10 to cm deep over the rocky subsoil of soft chalk with carbonated silex or Onyx.
  • Les Maillons, 2 hectares, near the town of Sézanne in the coteaux du Sézannais. Clays rich in iron.
  • Les Enfers.

So far produces 6 distinct wines (each one from a singe vineyard):

  • Blanc de Blancs Les Pierrières (first vintage is 2004)
  • Blanc de Blancs Les Roises (first vintage is 2008)
  • Blanc de Blancs Les Enfers (first vintage is 2010)
  • Blanc de Noirs Les Maillons (first vintage is 2006)
  • Rose Les Maillons (first vintage is 2011)
  • Jardin d’Ulysse (first vintage is 015)

Ratings

2022-07-15 - 9.00

Based on the 2017 Pinot Noir, it spent 32 months on the lees. A sophisticated and expressive bouquet full of cheese, apple seeds, honey, graphite, and red apple jam with Jerez notes. Elegant, precise, delicious and almost perfectly balanced. Good to drink it now. Incredible.

Disgorged on 03/2021.