Initially, it plays the charm card, ushering in a medley of tertiary notes like cherry confiture, tar, leather, dry rose petals, and mushrooms. It doesn't parade complexity, yet it's anything but simple.

But the taste, boy, it's a tannic beast. Despite nearing two decades, it's like a gritty tango with sandpaper, a dried cat's lick. There's a juicy persistence, yes! But it's teetering on the edge of balance, with tannin and ethanol somewhat overplaying their hands.

An hour of decanting was just a tease; this one seems to yearn for an overnight timeout. It's an interesting, albeit abrasive ride.