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Quest for Value

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Boris Buliga

The quest for value never ends. At one of the previous events, we focused on wines with a good value under a specific price bar. Today we continue to explore the Ukrainian wine market to find bottles that hit the sweet spot of quality to price ratio. To spice things up, we have wines in different price ranges.


The quest for value never ends. At one of the previous events, we focused on wines with a good value under a specific price bar. Today we continue to explore the Ukrainian wine market to find bottles that hit the sweet spot of quality to price ratio. To spice things up, we have wines in different price ranges.

Without further ado, meet our protagonists.

WinePlace
wavg
sdev
fav
out
price
QPR
🥉 3rd3.79330.015231
320 UAH
5.5203
🏅 7th3.57330.095204
1,600 UAH
0.8055
🏅 5th3.76220.244125
650 UAH
2.5974
🏅 4th3.77110.031400
590 UAH
2.8987
🏅 6th3.67780.061401
314 UAH
4.7602
🥈 2nd3.98890.058921
1,075 UAH
2.1955
🥇 1st4.19560.040850
929 UAH
3.4827

Bodegas Olarra Ondarre Valdebarón Blanco 2020

Type
white still, dry
Region
Rioja DOC, Spain
Vintage
2020
Grapes
Tempranillo Blanco
Alcohol
12.5
Sugar
4
Price
320 UAH
Bodegas Olarra Ondarre Valdebarón Blanco 2020

This wine secured the 🥉 3rd place in our wine tasting lineup.

Wineries under Grupo Bodegas Olarra are known for value. I am pretty sure many of you are familiar with the Cerro Añon line. There are 3 red wines in this line - Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva. One of them could be part of this event, but I wanted to bring something new.

Bodegas Ondarre (part of Grupo Bodegas Olarra) was founded in 1985 in Viana (part of Rioja DOC) with the goal of expressing the terroir. The name of the bodega pays homage to the family country house dating from 1450.

Valdebarón Blanco is 100% Tempranillo Blanco from low-yielding vines growing in sand, gravel, clay, chalk and limestone soils from the north and northeast of Viana. Cask-fermented in new French oak followed by a further 2 months ageing on lees in American and French oak and acacia wood casks.

Fio Wein Riesling Qualitätswein 2014

Type
white still, dry
Region
Mosel, Germany
Producer
Fio Wein
Vintage
2014
Grapes
Riesling
Alcohol
10.5
Sugar
unknown
Price
1600 UAH
Fio Wein Riesling Qualitätswein 2014

This wine secured the 🏅 7th place in our wine tasting lineup.

Never lose the thread.

Never!

— D+D Niepoort and Philipp Kettern

some random image you can find on barberry garden

Fio is a Portuguese word for 'wire' or 'thread'. A collaboration between Dirk Niepoort (famous Portuguese winemaker), his son Daniel and Mosel winegrower Philipp Kettern. A thread between them is a shared vision - old school wines using long elevage and traditional techniques to deliver natural stabilization. They decided to start a project in Mosel and focus on Riesling. Only spontaneous fermentation and prolonged ageing on lees in old Mosel fuders. This specific Riesling was matured for over two years in a 60-years old fuder.

The bottle was selected because it amazed me during a blind tasting dedicated to Riesling wines. Only to think it was almost two years ago! And despite the high price, it still has great value for money.

Cascina Tavijn Vino Bianca 2021

Type
white still, dry
Region
Vino (IT), Italy
Vintage
2021
Grapes
Chardonnay, Cortese, Moscatel Bianco
Alcohol
12.5
Sugar
unknown
Price
650 UAH
Cascina Tavijn Vino Bianca 2021

This wine secured the 🏅 5th place in our wine tasting lineup.

I said it before, and I am going to repeat myself. I am in love with the rustic character and peasant authenticity of Cascina Tavijn. After such a precise Riesling, it's time for some rebels with gorgeous labels made by Gianluca Cannizzo (the designer behind My Poster Sucks).

Cortese and Chardonnay from vines just beneath Nadia's home blended with a little Moscato from her friend Ezio Cerruti. The grapes were destemmed and macerated for a few days (4-7 days), fermented in steel and then racked to fibreglass for nine months.

In my opinion, Bianca is among the best orange wines you can find on Ukrainian market today for this price. By the way, I advise you to taste Bandita if you missed it. One more beauty with good value.

Fedellos Camándula 2019

Type
red still, dry
Region
Vino de Mesa, Spain
Producer
Peixes
Vintage
2019
Grapes
Field Blend
Alcohol
12
Sugar
unknown
Price
590 UAH
Peixes Camándula 2019

This wine secured the 🏅 4th place in our wine tasting lineup.

Of course! Of course we have a bottle of Fedellos.

Ribeira Sacra is currently one of the most talked-about places in the wine world, not only for its scenery but for affordable, refreshing, and complex wines made from indigenous varieties like Mencía (a sleeker expression than in Bierzo), Mourantón, Garnacha Tintorera (widely planted after phylloxera), Caño, Bastardo (a.k.a. Trousseau), Grao Negro, Sousón, Godello, Doña Blanca, Palomino, and other grapes. Not the most popular and known bunch, isn't it?

Luis Taboada comes from an old family that owned Pazo do Couto, an ancient manor dating to the 12th century that produced a wide array of agricultural products. Recognizing the value of his ancient, north- and east-facing vineyards, he teamed up with viticulturist Pablo Soldavini, a proponent of organic farming and winemakers Curro Bareño and Jesús Olivares to found Fedellos do Couto in 2011. According to PanLex, Fedellos roughly translates as 'brats'. So the name of the winery is - Brats from Couto (estate).

Curro Bareño and Jesús Olivares are also known for Ca' di Mat and Peixes. After parting (when?) their ways with Luis Taboada leaving DO Ribeira Sacra (deemed atypical!), they decided to merge Fedellos do Couto with Peixes to become a single project - Fedellos.

Camándula is a field blend, seemingly consisting of all the grapes Fedellos are cultivating - Mencía, Mouraton, Grao Negro, Garnacha Tintorera, Bastardo, Godello, Dona Blanca, Palomino and Sousón. Fermented and macerated for 2 months in plastic vats. Aged for 6 months on lees in 3000-litre neutral French foudre, no bâtonnage.

Illuminati Riparosso 2020

Type
red still, dry
Region
Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOC, Italy
Producer
Illuminati
Vintage
2020
Grapes
Montepulciano
Alcohol
13.5
Sugar
2.5
Price
314 UAH
Illuminati Riparosso 2020

This wine secured the 🏅 6th place in our wine tasting lineup.

Riparosso is one of those wines I take every time I need a reliable choice for an affordable price. Trip to the village? Riaprosso! As I can enjoy it even from a metallic mug. Long lunch at home with my family? Riaprosso! Because it has good fruit, acidity and tannin to help with most of the food we usually cook. When I get a chance to buy Riparosso on a 5+1 sale, I don't skip it and take one or two cases.

Dino Illuminati is already well over 80 years old and still plays an active role in the winery. The estate dates back to the 19th century. It's located between seas and mountains in the Abruzzo region, almost on the border with Marche.

Of course, Illuminati produces some serious wines like Zana, Lumen and Pieluni. But they have a very nice range of affordable everyday wines. Riparosso is 100% Montepulciano that was aged in large oak barrels for 8 months.

Trossos Vells 2018

Type
red still, dry
Region
Montsant DO, Spain
Producer
Trossos
Wine
Vells
Vintage
2018
Grapes
Cariñena
Alcohol
13
Sugar
0.3
Price
1075 UAH
Trossos Vells 2018

This wine secured the 🥈 2nd place in our wine tasting lineup.

Well, well, well, if it's the Vells itself. Alfredo Arribas (ex-architect, though not from IT, so restrain from asking him to validate your distributed system design) is one of the people that arrived to beautifully shaped Priorat and Montsant to shape them as winemaking regions. His main project is Portal del Priorat. Trossos is the second one and is located in Montsant.

Despite their proximity (30 km), Priorat and Montsant are strongly contrasting terroirs, landscape- and soil-wise. Monstant hills surround Priorat, thus creating a micro-climate within. Priorat is predominantly slate soil, on very sloped land. Montsant is much flatter, meaning ‘less aggressive topography’, with clay and chalky soil.

Vells is 100% Cariñena from 60+ years old vines cultivated organically with biodynamic practices on red chalky soils at 300-350m above sea level. Lots are fermented separately in small tanks. Matured in French oak barrels of different sizes for 11 months.

Weinert Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

Type
red still, dry
Region
Mendoza, Argentina
Producer
Weinert
Vintage
2011
Grapes
Cabernet Sauvignon
Alcohol
14.5
Sugar
unknown
Price
929 UAH
Weinert Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

This wine secured the 🥇 1st place in our wine tasting lineup.

It is said that Mr. Raúl de la Mota had a dream of making high quality wine from Malbec grapes in Mendoza. In 1970 Malbec was only on its way to becoming a star in these lands, yet Mr. Raúl de la Mota meets and shares his dream with a Brazilian transportation businessman, Mr. Bernardo C. Weinert. The story is stingy, so I don't know all the reasons for Mr. Bernardo C. Weinert to agree. But it is known that he fell in love with a 80 years old building in Carrodilla, Luján de Cuyo. So in 1975 they started to reconstruct the building and the winery itself. The first harvest was in 1977 and first release was in 1979.

But what makes this winery interesting for us, plebeians? First of all, it is located in Luján de Cuyo, a high altitude (900 m.a.s.l.) region in Mendoza, in the foothills of Andeas mountains between 800 m and 1500 m elevation. This terroir enables complex and well structured wines. Secondly, Weinert ages wines in the bottle before releasing them. And it's easy to get bottles that are 10+ years old. Thirdly, the price tag is good. This combination deserves to be enjoyed.

The wine is aged in French oak casks of 2000-600 litres. During this ageing process, winemaker Hubert Weber selects casks to compose a terroir blend of Cabernet Sauvignon from different vineyards within Lujan de Cuyo. 2011 vintage saw 9.5 years. Bottled in February 2021.

Raw scores

WineAndrii KHanna KOleksandr RIvietta KRostyslav YaDmytro DDimitry GBoris BAnna KhTania SAndrii ShAndrii Br
3.703.803.904.003.703.903.603.703.903.804.003.90
3.903.403.503.803.403.503.503.802.803.403.703.00
3.003.004.203.003.303.204.503.904.004.003.503.70
3.503.503.703.603.803.403.804.003.703.503.503.40
3.704.003.603.504.103.603.503.703.904.003.203.80
3.603.804.004.504.104.003.504.004.003.904.003.80
3.904.004.104.304.603.804.304.104.304.204.204.10