Domaine Labet lias chardonnay 2020

Ratings

April 1, 2025

Fairly oxidative and quite aggressive. Bruised apples, honey, a touch of herbs, salted nuts. The palate opens with a punch - sharp acidity and a hint of cabbage, then dips, only to resurface with piercing, slightly bitter notes. There's a deep, mineral core running through it, but it's a challenging wine to process - demanding, intense, and yet still fantastic in its own way.

About Producer

Nestled in Sud-Revermont in the southern Côte du Jura, just 15 minutes from Château Chalon, Domaine Labet stands out for its pioneering yet modest family approach. Founded in Rotalier in 1974 by Alain Labet, the winery initially embraced the traditional 'sous voile' method - oxidative ageing under a yeast veil, without topping up the barrels. However, Alain soon realized that this approach blurred the distinctive varietal characteristics. In response, in 1992, he crafted his first "Fleur" wines, topping up barrels to retain the purity and precision of terroir. Initially challenging to sell locally, these "vins ouillés" quickly gained international recognition, influencing emerging Jura talents like Ganevat, Marnes Blanches, Les Dolomies, and others, turning the region into a vibrant breeding ground for innovation.

Today, Domaine Labet spans 14 hectares across four communes and 45 individual plots. Alain's children - Julien, Charline, and Romain - now manage the estate. Julien, with experience from Domaine Ramonet in Burgundy (brace yourself, prices start at around €200 per bottle) and Hamilton Russell in South Africa, leads winemaking with a natural yet meticulous style, significantly reducing sulphur usage even in challenging vintages. Charline, an experienced oenologist who also honed her skills in Chile, manages the cellar meticulously. Romain, trained in agriculture, oversees vineyard operations with profound care and respect.

Their vineyards feature continental climate conditions with soils rich in limestone and marls from the Triassic and Lias eras, distinctly different from those near Arbois due to the presence of Bajocian limestone. The vines - many over 60 years old - are organically certified by Ecocert, and biodynamic practices are employed. Chemicals are banned, organic compost is ploughed into the soil, and older vineyards rely solely on horse-driven ploughing. Yields vary from 10 to 40 hl/ha, depending on plot and weather, and annual production is limited to 60,000 highly sought-after bottles.

Vinification at Labet follows two clear paths. Most whites, notably the "Fleurs" range, undergo topped-up ageing in Burgundian barrels or demi-muids for at least 18 months, avoiding oxidation to showcase the vineyard's unique character. The traditional "vin de voile" wines, however, are aged oxidatively, allowing a yeast veil to develop and impart classic Jura notes of curry, hazelnut, and walnut.

Reds are partially destemmed and aged in larger wooden barrels or ancient foudres. Wines ferment spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, and sulphur is added only sparingly and transparently documented.

Domaine Labet's hallmark remains its straightforward philosophy: one vineyard, one wine - each capturing the essence of place and grape. Chardonnay dominates their white vineyards, alongside Savagnin, while reds comprise Pinot Noir, Poulsard, Trousseau, and Gamay. It's this dedication to purity and precision that has firmly placed Domaine Labet among Jura's most cherished estates.