Larmandier-Bernier Latitude (d2022) NV
- Region
- France » Champagne » Champagne AOC
- Type
- white traditional sparkling, extra brut
- Producer
- Vintage
- NV
- Disgorged
- 2022-11
- On lees
- >24 months
- Grapes
- Chardonnay
- Alcohol
- 12.5
- Sugar
- 4
- Volume
- 750 mL
- Cellar
- not available
Ratings
It's possible that bottle variation or the influence of the previous setting played a role in the differing experiences with this wine. This time, the wine's seemingly deceptive simplicity deceived me. Nevertheless, it still offers a pleasant cider-driven bouquet with notes of lemon, ginger, meringue, zest, and chalk. The palate is energetic and round, complemented by a nice mousse. Despite the slight change in perception, it was a delicious bottle.
Opening this wine at just the right moment seems to have made the experience all the more special. It's focused and energetic, both in aroma and taste. While not overly complex, it features a beautiful bouquet of lemon, ginger, meringue, zest, and chalk. The palate is equally energetic, leading to a long and flavourful aftertaste. Its deceptive simplicity is part of its charm, making it a deliciously enjoyable wine.
About Producer
Larmandier-Bernier is one of those domaines that doesn't scream for attention - but if you pay attention, it's hard to look away. Pierre Larmandier took over the family estate in 1988 and has quietly built one of the most respected grower operations in Champagne, especially in the Côte des Blancs. His path wasn't loud or trendy - just persistent, thoughtful, and increasingly precise.
The estate itself has roots going back to the French Revolution, though it formally came together in 1971 through the marriage of Philippe Larmandier and Elisabeth Bernier. Today, it's Pierre and Sophie Larmandier, along with their son Arthur, who run the show - working nearly 18 hectares spread across some of the most iconic chalk soils in Champagne: Cramant, Chouilly, Oger, Avize (all Grand Cru), and Vertus (Premier Cru). Chardonnay dominates, as expected, but there are also small parcels of Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris.
By 1999, the estate had fully converted to biodynamic farming. Yields are kept low, and many of the vines are now approaching or well past 50 years of age. Nothing here is rushed, nothing feels accidental.
In the cellar, the approach is about letting the vineyards speak. Each cru is vinified separately, with native yeasts and minimal intervention. Fermentation happens in large foudres and Burgundian barrels, depending on the parcel and year. Malolactic fermentation is not feared; blending decisions are made calmly in the summer following harvest. And dosage - when it appears at all - is minimal and always earned in the vineyard.
The lineup is tight and expressive: Latitude, Longitude, Terre de Vertus, Les Chemins d'Avize, Vieille Vigne du Levant, and the Rosé de Saignée. The wines are brisk and mineral, yet never hollow. They carry texture, but not weight. They age beautifully but are never closed off.